Well I decided to upgrade my brakes, both front and rear. Depending on your wear or how long your old brakes have been on, you may need to have your rotors bead blasted. Also I installed a set of Galfer steel braded brake lines.
1. Cover all painted areas with plastic that are exposed to possible spillage of brake fluid. This is because brake fluid can destroy a painted surface.
NOTE: In some of the picture below, I have not covered the fenders and such so I could give a clearer picture.
2. Next you want to take all the old brake fluid possible out of the system. In the picture above, I used a vacuum pump to aid in doing this. The plastic reservoir catches all the brake fluid.
IMPORTANT: MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS TO BOTH SIDES ON THE FRONT BRAKES.
In this picture I show you I attached the vacuum pump to the bleeder valve.
3. Now take loose the clamps holding the old brake lines to the lower fork legs. (Do both sides).
4. Now take off the brake hose joint. Do not take the hoses off.
5. Now take off the lower brake hose union bolt. Put a piece of plastic or rag over your wheel just in case there is any brake fluid left. Do this to both sides.
6. Now using string or a light piece of wire, tie up the brake lines to the turn signals. They are not heavy, so it will not bother it. Do this to both sides.
7. Now remove the brake caliper.
8. Now looking on top of the caliper you will see a piece of metal. You will need to remove this. It requires a 3mm allen wrench to do this.
9. Once the cover is off you will see a cotter pin. Remove this and the pin it is locked in to. Also remove the brake pads. The pin is directional, even though it can be install backwards.
10. This is the pin and cotter pin. Using a brake cleaner, clean both of these.
11. Now very carefully push all of the pistons in until they are flush.
CAUTION: THERE MAY STILL BE SOME BRAKE FLUID IN THE CALIPER AND IT WILL SQUIRT OUT WHEN YOU PUSH THE PISTONS BACK FLUSH.
12. Now in reverse order (with out touching the brake pads) install your new Ferodo brake pads.
13. Now clean and reinstall the metal cover back on the caliper.
14. Remove the bleed screw and put Teflon tape over the threads only and reinstall. Do not go any lower than the threads, or you could cover the bleed holes.
15. Reinstall the caliper back on to the fork leg. Cover the union bolt hole until you are ready to reinstall your old or new brake lines. I use a piece of electrical tape.
16. Repeat steps 7 through 15 for the other brake caliper.
17. Even though you have plastic down under the master cylinder, put a rag under the master cylinder and remove the brake hose union bolt. Now remove the old brake line and install your new Galfer Brake lines.
NOTE: You will not use any part of your old brake line if you are installing the two line Galfer setup.
Do not line the Galfer lines up. Because if you do, when you tighten them down, you will tighten them down with uneven pressure. This will cause a leak.
Using an old coat hanger, I fashioned a new mounting bracket for my new Galfer brake lines.
Because the new brake lines will hit the upper fairing on the right side, I very loosely install a wire tie. I made it just tight enough so the lines would not hit the fairing on the right side.
18. Now torque all the mounting bolts back to there proper torque.
19. Once this is all done, you now need to bleed the brakes.
1. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cover. If there is old brake fluid in there you will need to suck out as much as possible and add fresh. If there is no brake fluid in the reservoir, then just add fresh fluid.
2. Now install the vacuum pump again and pull a vacuum.
3. Once the vacuum is pulled. Open the bleeder screw for just a second and then re-close. Do this over and over until you feel you have enough new brake fluid in there. Also do this for the other side too.
MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR FULL OF BRAKE FLUID. BECAUSE AS YOU BLEED THE BRAKES, YOU WILL LOSE BRAKE FLUID AS YOU DO THIS.
4. Once you get this done to both sides, check your brakes to make sure you have brake pressure and it is not sponge.
5. If it is still sponge or you do not have good brake pressure, do this. Put a clear hose of the end of bleeder bolt. Slowly pump the brake handle about 10 times and on the 10 stroke, hold in the compressed position. Open the bleeder nut. Hold it open until you feel the brake lever almost touch the handle bar, then close the bleeder nut. Do this on both side until you get good brake pressure on the brake handle.
6. Now to insure you have gotten rid of all the air in the line, tie your brake handle about 1/2 way back to the handle bar and leave over night. This will remove any air that was missed.
1. Very carefully pop off the plastic cover on the bottom. It is just hooked on by two small plastic tabs on the part that is by my thumb.
2. Now remove the two caliper mounting bolts (above my index finger) and the rear torque link nut and bolt (the silver one to the right of my index finger).
3. Now remove the dual cotter pin.
4. Now remove the two pins that hold in the rear brake pads and remove the brake pads.
You will notice there is a spring on the brake pad. This is to clip over the pad and the out side ends of the spring clips under the pins. This helps hold the pads in place. Also, on the table you will notice the two (half moon shaped) backing plates. These go on the back side of the brake pads and they are directional. So watch how you take them off.
4. Now you can install your new Ferodo rear brake pads. Reverse the order you took out the old pads. See the spring in the picture above. This is how you will install the pads and the springs.
This is the pads in finished.
5. Now reinstall the rear caliper in the reverse order you took it off.
6. Now torque all mounting bolts you took off, back to there proper torque settings.
7. Now bleed you rear brake. When you bleed the rear brake, you have two ports to bleed. One front on the top center and one on the back, side rear.
Now you are done with both front and rear.